Description
Los sarapes son una fusión de la tilma prehispánica y la capa española. En el siglo XIX era, junto con el sombrero, parte de la indumentaria de peones, jinetes, charros y chinacos. Hoy, puede tener una finalidad utilitaria, pero han pasado a ser, también, objetos decorativos.
Era en Tlaxcala donde, en el México prehispánico, se tejían tilmas de algodón y fibras de agave o palma. Lo hacían en telares de cintura hasta que, después de la conquista llegó la lana de borrego y los telares de pedal.
En 1591, cuatrocientas familias tlaxcaltecas fueron reubicadas a Saltillo y ellos llevaron a esta ciudad, del norte del país, sus conocimientos para hacer sarapes. Como ahí se llevaba a cabo una importante Feria donde se vendían diversos productos, los sarapes que ahí se encontraban eran conocidos como “Sarapes de Saltillo”, sin tomar en cuenta quiénes los habían elaborado.
Hoy se producen sarapes en la Ciudad de México y en varios estados de la República. Hay lugares empeñados en recuperar y mantener algunas técnicas ancestrales, sobre todo en las relativas a la decoración y al teñido del material. El procedimiento implica lavar la lana con tequesquite, in order to remove grease and dirt; is carded and a thick thread is made which, before weaving, is dyed with natural dyes extracted, for example, from the flower ofcempoaxuchil, the Castile walnut, the palo dulce or the grana cochineal.
In 2018, the Tlaxcala State Congress declared the sarape Intangible Cultural Heritage. One of the great masters recognized for the quality of his work is the Tlaxcaltecan Ignacio Netzahualcoyotl, who works in a workshop opened in 1898 and won the National Popular Art Prize, 2013.
Pieces can be seen in the Sarape Museum of Saltillo, as well as in the Tianguis Artesanal of Tlaxcala, and in Mexico City, in the Museum of Popular Art or in the Center of Crafts.
english
Sarapes, coats and ponchosSarapes are a fusion of the pre-Hispanic tilma and the Spanish cape. In the 19th century, they were, together with the hat, part of the clothing worn by laborers, horsemen, “charros” and “chinacos”. Today, they may have a utilitarian purpose, but they have also become decorative objects.
It was in Tlaxcala where, in pre-Hispanic Mexico, tilmas were woven from cotton and agave or palm fibers. This was done on backstrap looms until, after the conquest, sheep’s wool and treadle looms were introduced. In 1591, four hundred Tlaxcalan families were relocated to Saltillo and they brought their knowledge of making sarapes to this northern city. There, an important fair was held where different products were sold, and the sarapes produced there were known as “Sarapes de Saltillo”, regardless of who made them.
Today sarapes are produced in Tlaxcala, in Mexico City and in several states of the Republic. Some places are committed to recovering and maintaining some of the ancestral techniques, especially those related to the decoration and dyeing of the material. The procedure involves washing the wool with “tequesquite”, in order to remove grease and dirt. It is carded and a thick yarn is made which, before weaving, is dyed with natural dyes extracted, for example, from the “cempoaxuchil” flower, the walnut of Castilla, the “palo dulce” or the “grana cochinilla”.
In 2018, the State Congress of Tlaxcala declared the sarape Intangible Cultural Heritage. One of the great masters recognized for the quality of his work is the Tlaxcalan Ignacio Netzahualcoyotl, who has been working in an open workshop since 1898 and won the 2013 National Popular Art Prize. Pieces can be seen in the Museo del Sarape in Saltillo, as well as in the Tianguis Artesanal de Tlaxcala, and in Mexico City, in the Museo de Arte Popular or in the Centro de las Artesanías.
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