Descripción
Los camélidos autóctonos sudamericanos silvestres son dos: los guanacos (Lama guanicoe) and the vicuñas (Vicugna vicugna).
These animals were a fundamental part of pre-Hispanic cultures, the vicuña in the Andean zone as material for the most important fabrics, and the guanaco providing food and shelter to the Patagonian communities.selk’namy aonikenk.In 1973, Argentine guanacos and vicuñas were included in the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). These fibers with exceptional qualities are revalued for textile use: they are fine, soft, thermal insulating, hypoallergenic, water repellent and with a natural color palette that includes white, black, gray and a wide range of earth tones. It is said that vicuña ponchos are so thin that they can be passed through the hoop of a ring.
Vicuña is considered a luxury fiber, one of the most expensive and finest in the world. Its use is exclusively artisanal and the obtaining is carried out in a regulated manner by the CAMVI (Andean Managing Communities of Vicuña), populations organized to sustainably manage and take advantage of the natural resources of the Puna Jujeña. This capture and shearing event, theChaccu(from the Quechua arriar, to gather), reproduces an ancestral practice. The cleaning, dehairing, spinning and weaving process is completely manual. The production of some garments (such as ponchos, for example) can take several months. Shawls, ponchos and blankets are woven on a Creole loom, with fine line designs that combine the natural colors of the material, sometimes with embroidery applications or rapacejo finishes. The members of the Mesa Local Laguna Blanca cooperative (Catamarca) specialize in these fabrics, with which they have won awards and international recognition.
In 2017 the Vicuña Mark came into force (CITES, 2016), which must be requested by anyone who uses the fiber for the manufacture of garments.
The guanaco is an emblematic species of the Patagonian steppe, where the vast majority of these animals on the continent are grouped. In 2019, the Argentine Ministry of Environment and Sustainable Development approved the National Plan for the Sustainable Management of the Guanaco. Its fiber is the second most valuable after vicuña.
The Guanaco Estepa artisan collective (Río Negro) promotes the artisanal value chain of its fine fiber: herding and shearing in a wild environment, artisanal spindle spinning, weaving on an indigenous loom, with two needles or crochet. They produce blankets, ruanas, vests, gloves, accessories and rugs, with the animal’s own colors or with exclusively natural dyes. The motifs are distributed in guards by working technique; Fringe or chilla finishes are sometimes added.
english
Vicuña and GuanacoThere are two indigenous wild South American camelids: guanacos (Lama guanicoe) and vicuñas (Vicugna vicugna).
These animals were a fundamental part of pre-Hispanic cultures: the vicuña in the Andean zone served as a material for the most important textiles, while the guanaco provided food and shelter for the Patagonian Selk’nam and Aonikenk communities.
In 1973, Argentine guanacos and vicuñas were included in the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). These fibers with exceptional qualities for textile use are revalued: they are fine, soft, thermally insulating, hypoallergenic, water repellent and with a natural palette of colors that includes white, black, gray and a wide range of earth tones. Vicuña ponchos are said to be so thin that they can be pulled through the hoop of a ring.
Vicuña is esteemed as a luxury fiber, renowned as one of the world’s most expensive and finest materials. Its utilization is exclusively artisanal, and its acquisition is regulated by the CAMVI (Comunidades Andinas Manejadoras de Vicuña), organized collectives responsible for managing and ensuring the sustainable use of natural resources in the Jujuy Puna. The capture and shearing event, known as the Chaccu (derived from the Quechua word «lower,» meaning to gather), successfully reproduces an ancient practice. The entire process, involving cleaning, dehairing, spinning, and weaving, is faithfully meticulous manual. Crafting certain garments, such as ponchos, can span several months. Shawls, ponchos, and blankets are intricately woven on the Creole loom, featuring fine-line designs that harmonize with the natural hues of the material. Occasionally, these creations may incorporate embroidery applications or twisted-fringe finishes. The members of the cooperative Mesa Local Laguna Blanca in Catamarca specializes in these exquisite weavings, garnering prizes and international recognition.
In 2017, the Vicuña Mark (CITES, 2016) came into effect, and it is mandatory for anyone using the fiber for garment production to apply for it.
The guanaco is an emblematic species of the Patagonian steppe, where the vast majority of these animals are found throughout the continent. In 2019, the Secretaria de Ambiente y Desarrollo Sustentable (current Argentina’s Ministry of Environment and Sustainable Development) approved the Plan Nacional para el Manejo Sostenible del Guanaco (National Plan for the Sustainable Management of the Guanaco). Its fiber is the second most valuable after the vicuña.
The Guanaco Estepa collective (Rio Negro) promotes the artisanal value chain of its fine fiber: herding and shearing in a natural environment, artisanal spinning on spindles, weaving on indigenous looms, with two needles, or crochet. They produce blankets,ruanas, waistcoats, gloves, accessories, and rugs, with the animal’s own colors or exclusively natural dyes. The motifs are distributed in borders according to the weaving technique; fringes orscreechesare sometimes added as finishes.


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